How to Grow and Care for Rhododendron

Rhododendron is an attractive, blooming bush in many landscapes and is fairly low maintenance when planted properly. Growing Rhododendron successfully requires the proper planting spot. Proper soil preparation is also necessary for the health of this acid loving plant.

Soil preparation is best accomplished in autumn before planting the Rhododendron in spring. When to plant it will depend on the USDA zone in which it grows. Growing Rhododendron is an exacting task, but with the right soil and location, it will provide an optimum performance.

Unlike many blooming plants, Rhododendron does not like full morning sun in winter and does best when planted in dappled shade on the north side of a building. Growing Rhododendrons are happiest in a location protected from the wind and not under eves of a building.

When to Plant

Plant the Rhododendron bush in spring when danger of frost has passed. Plant the bush high in properly prepared soil, as soggy and waterlogged roots are the main cause of plant failure in the landscape.

Rhododendron will likely be purchased as a containerized plant or a balled and burlapped specimen. The root ball should be soaked prior to planting. Moisture is required for proper care. Place the plant in a tub or bucket for a brief soaking, until air bubbles disappear. Plant the bush so that its crown is at the same level as in the pot.

Soil Preparation

Correct soil pH for the growing Rhododendrons is crucial. Between 4.5 and 5.5 on the pH scale is appropriate. A soil test is the best way to determine the pH of the soil and make amendments. Aluminum sulfate should be avoided when amending beds for growing Rhododendrons.

Rhododendron is best planted in groupings in prepared beds as opposed to individual planting holes. Caring for Rhododendrons will be simpler if they are planted is moisture retaining but well-draining, loamy fertile soil with the proper pH. A 50 percent ratio of organic matter is encouraged as a soil amendment, as it provides aeration and drainage and allows the bush to set higher.

General Care

Once properly located in the planting bed, water thoroughly and cover with an organic mulch which will break down to supply nutrients as it decomposes. A pine bark covering applied at 2 inches (5 cm) is thought to inhibit fungi that cause root rot. Do not mulch with peat moss, as it is difficult to rewet after it has dried out. Proper mulching will decrease the need for future care.

Rhododendron care includes a yearly fertilization which is best applied in fall, following a hard freeze or in early spring. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants, such as organic cottonseed meal. The organic material you have worked into the soil previously will break down to provided some of the necessary nutrients.

Consistently moist soil is needed for proper care, but too much water creates problems for the growing Rhododendron. When leaves curl and twist, this indicates that water is needed immediately. The bush should not be allowed to go through the stress of wilting.

Growing healthy and long-blooming Rhododendrons starts with properly amended soil and planting in the correct location. These steps ensure minimal effort when caring for Rhododendrons. Once sited properly, the Rhododendron needs only adequate watering, pruning and deadheading of the flowers to encourage their abundant return.

Source: gardeningknowhow.com

How to Grow and Care for Plumeria

Plumeria plants, which are also known as Lei Flowers and Frangipani, are actually small trees that are native to tropical regions. The flowers of these beautiful plants are used in making traditional Hawaiian leis. 

They are highly fragrant and bloom freely from spring throughout fall in multiple colors like white, yellow, pink, and red. These flowers stand out nicely amid the large-leaved foliage, which may be evergreen or deciduous, depending on the type.

Although you don’t have to live in the tropics to grow Plumeria in the home garden, you should be aware of its growing requirements beforehand.

Growing Conditions and General Care

Often grown in the garden as an ornamental shrub or small tree, Plumeria plants need to be grown in well-draining soil that is slightly acidic. They also need at least six hours of full sun.

While the plants are fairly tolerant of both salt and windy conditions, they’re not tolerant of cold and must be protected. Therefore, they should be container grown in colder regions. In areas that may be warm most of the time but still fairly prone to cold winters, the plant can be dug up and overwintered indoors. 

Alternatively, you can sink container grown Plumerias in the ground, bringing them indoors once the temperatures begin to drop in fall. Once warmer temps return in spring, you can return the plants back outdoors.

When growing Plumeria plants in pots, use a coarse, well-draining potting mix—cactus mix or perlite and sand should be fine.

Plumeria care, for the most part, is minimal. While Plumerias don’t like wet feet, they should be watered deeply when irrigated and then allowed to dry out some before watering again. They also need to be fertilized about every two to three weeks throughout their active growing season. Reduce watering in mid fall and stop completely once the plants enter dormancy in winter. 

Resume regular watering as new growth appears in spring. A high phosphate (phosphorus) fertilizer, like 10-30-10, will help encourage blooms. Giving them too much nitrogen will only result in more foliage growth and less flowering.

Pruning

Plumerias may be pruned as needed (up to 12 inches from ground) in late winter or early spring (prior to new growth); however, any drastic or hard pruning done may reduce flowering.

Propagation

These plants can also be propagated by seeds or cuttings in spring, with cuttings being the easiest and most preferred method. Insert cuttings about 2 inches in potting mix and water thoroughly.

Source: gardeningknowhow.com

How to Grow and Care for Mosaic Plant (Ludwigia sedoides)

Ludwigia sedoides, commonly known as Mosaic Plant, Mosaic Flower and False Loosestrife, is a herbaceous perennial plant of the family Onagraceae. It has yellow flowers that bloom from June to August.

This floating Ludwigia is native to Central and South America, where it can be found growing in stagnant waters as well as in sections of riverine environments that are free of current. It is a very common pond plant in warm climates or ponds in conservatories. Cultivation in an aquarium is a bit more complicated.

Growing Conditions and General Care

Above all else, this floating stem plant requires light. Even values in the higher range of what is possible over a planted aquarium are often not enough. Outdoor culture in a well-lit pond or tub is sometimes the only way to achieve satisfactory growth with this species.

 Heavy fertilization with macro- and micronutrients is essential (if enough light is available) to produce attractive growth. Yellow flowers form on the floating rosettes if the plant is achieving good growth.

Winter hardy to USDA Zone 10. In St. Louis, grow as an annual in containers covered with 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) of water in full sun to part shade. Plants can be difficult to overwinter indoors.

Although the usefulness of this species in the aquascape is markedly limited, its beautiful circles of reddish foliage can lend a unique texture to outdoor ponds.

Propagation

Propagation can be carried out by snipping off a rosette, with a section of stem attached, from the main stem. The main part of the stem is left in the tank. A new rosette will develop on it after a short while.

How to Grow and Care for Pocketbook Plants (Calceolaria)

Calceolaria, commonly known as Pocketbook Plants, Pouch Flowers or Slipper Flowers is a genus of plants in the Calceolariaceae family. This genus consists of about 388 species of shrubs, lianas and herbs, and the geographical range extends from Patagonia to central Mexico, with its distribution center in Andean region.

Calceolaria’s nickname (Pocketbook Plant) is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. Growing Pocketbook Plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.

Growing Conditions and General Care

While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Pocketbook Plant. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Calceolaria care works best when you try to imitate its native home.

Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants.

Pocketbook Plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again.

Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.

Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. 

Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart. Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.

Propagation

Many different types are available as seeds, with gaudy color mixes being the norm. Sow seed in a peat based compost in late summer, and grow the young seedling on through until late autumn. The plants soon develop the rosette of foliage and will need space.

Pocketbook Plants can also be propagated with stem tip cuttings which should be taken in mid to late summer.

Source: gardeningknowhow.com

How to Grow and Care for Clematis

Every flower gardener should know the pleasure of growing Clematis. If you already have one in your garden, you’re probably scheming about how to squeeze in another! New to Clematis? Read on and discover how easy it is to be successful with the “queen of climbers”.

Selecting

Clematis have become a hugely popular perennial, and today, the average local garden center offers dozens of different choices. When selecting a Clematis for your garden, you’ll want to think about a couple things, which include its mature height, flower form and color.

If you have room for a vigorous 10- or 20-foot  (3 or 6 m) Clematis vine, there are many wonderful cultivars that will fit the bill. There are also more compact varieties that are perfectly happy growing in a small garden or even in a pot on the patio.

The standard Clematis  flower form is a large blossom with 6 or 7 petals, measuring 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) across. There are also cultivars with smaller blossoms, double blossoms, and lovely bell-like flowers. Colors range from white to wine red, lavender to deep purple, and there are even a few yellow ones.

It can take several years for a Clematis vine to mature and begin flowering vigorously. To shorten the wait and help ensure your success, it’s best to purchase a plant that’s at least 2 years old. Look for a container-grown plant in a quart or gallon-size pot.

 If you’re shopping for your Clematis at a garden center or nursery, select a robust plant that’s showing vigorous growth, rather than a weak plant with a beautiful picture.

Where to Plant

Hopefully you have a planting location in mind before you bring home your new Clematis . Ideally it’s a sunny spot.

Clematis prefer moist, well-drained soil that’s neutral to slightly alkaline in pH. If your soil tends to be acidic, you should sweeten it periodically with limestone or a little wood ash. Dig a good hole for your new Clematis, working in lots of compost and some granular organic fertilizer.

Be very gentle when settling the plant into its new home; the roots, crown and emerging vines of Clematis can be easily broken. Position the plant slightly deeper than it was growing in the pot, so the first set of true leaves is just under the soil surface.

 Water weekly for the first season, to help the plant get established. If you can get your Clematis through its first year, chances are good that it will continue to thrive. Mulching around the base of the plant will help conserve moisture, but keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.

Clematis are happiest with cool shade at their roots and warm sun on their foliage. Mulching around the roots will help keep the soil cool, as will the foliage of a low-growing perennial.

How to Support

Like other climbing plants, the growing end of a Clematis vine is searching for something to grab onto, and if it can’t find anything, it will stop growing. Make sure you provide it with something to climb on from day one.

A Clematis vine does not climb by twining around something, as a Pole Bean or a Morning Glory does. It climbs by wrapping its leaf stems around something. Because these leaf stems are not very long, anything that’s more than about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter is too wide for the leaf stem to twist around. 

The easiest things for a Clematis to grab onto, are twine, fishing line, wire, thin branches, wooden dowels or steel rods. The more grabbing opportunities you offer, the better, so even if you have a nice trellis, consider adding some twine “helper” lines, or covering your trellis with a grid of trellis netting.

Depending on the vigor of the plant and the type of trellis you have, you’ll probably need to do some “trussing” during the season to help support the vines and keep them attached to the trellis. Both fishing line and twine work well for this job.

Pruning and Care

Clematis vary in their need for pruning. Some types flower on last year’s vines, so you want to avoid cutting them to the ground in the spring. Others flower on current-year vines, so they don’t mind being cut to the ground each year. 

Rather than driving yourself crazy trying to keep track of the ideal pruning technique for each cultivar, try this common-sense approach: leave the prior year’s growth in place until mid-spring. Begin pruning only when you can see which vines are dead and which ones are starting to leaf out.

A happy clematis plant puts out an amazing amount of flowers and foliage. Feed your plants well to keep them healthy and vigorous. In early spring, surround the plant with a shovelful of compost and a handful of granular organic fertilizer. Feed again, once or twice during the growing season, with a water-soluble organic fertilizer.

Source: gardeners.com

All About Climbing Roses

There’s nothing more enchanting than the iconic “rose-covered cottage”. The imagery of quaint, thatched-roof homes covered with long, sweet-smelling trails of colorful roses. Climbing roses can form a vibrant landscape backdrop for border perennials and annuals. 

They are also a lovely choice for arbors, trellises, fences, and pergolas. Most varieties will grow from 6 to 12 feet (1.8 to 3.2 m) long and will spread about 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) wide. They are available in a range of pastels, brights, and multi-colors.

Climbers are considerably less fussy than their bush-form rose cousins; you simply need to have a handle on the basics and a little help from Mother Nature.

Choosing a Variety

Above all, determine whether the variety you want is suited for your growing zone – if you’re not already familiar with the importance of growing things suited to your hardiness zone. Next, choose the color you like and see if the mature size is suited for the space you’ve chosen. Then, look for a climber that is disease-resistant, repeat-blooming, or whichever other “bonus” features are most important to you.

Growing Conditions

Most all rose types need full sun; they thrive in loamy, well-drained soil and prefer a consistent drink of water: about an inch (2.5 cm) a week. Eastern exposure is ideal to protect the leaves from hot afternoon sun.

Note: Roses with wet feet are susceptible to all kinds of fungus. Black spot and other diseases can spread to your other rose plantings, so keep a clean planting site and take care not to overwater. Good soil drainage will help mitigate heavy soaking rains.

Training

Gardeners usually want a climbing rose to serve a functional purpose (act as a screen, frame a doorway, etc.) as well as provide visual beauty to the space. To that end, the stems need to be trained to grow the way you want them to. Air circulation is important to prevent disease, so if you want the climber to cover a wall, use a free-standing vertical support that gives your rose at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) of breathing room between the plant and the wall. 

With a stretchable fastener, hand-tie your climber to the crosspiece of the structure and try to arrange the branches in a fan shape as it grows. This will help to make pruning easier. It’s recommended that you train — do not try to heavily prune — for the first couple of years. This will encourage growth on the bottom of the plant, not just the tops, for a fuller appearance.

Pruning

Aside from sun, food, and water essentials, one thing you can do to turn your climbing roses into prolific bloomers is proper pruning. Pruning is only necessary once a year after the plants have been established. Many gardeners prune their climbing roses, for maintenance and shape, in the spring after the first blooms pass. As a result of proper pruning, your climbers will be significantly stronger and will produce many more blooms!

Note: Most climbing roses (hybrid teas) bloom two or more times every season: first on old canes, and then on the current season’s growth. If you prune in late winter (about the time forsythia blooms), you’ll get boatloads of blooms later in the season. For old-fashioned climbers that only bloom once in the summer, prune just after blooming has stopped.

When it’s time to prune, remove any dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing canes, and canes that are narrower than a pencil. When all you’ve got is main canes left, cut back the side shoots from these main canes to about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to keep them in line.

Tip: Wipe your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol between each cut. This helps prevent the spread of disease when pruning, while also caring for your tools. After use, wash pruning tools with a mild soap, rinse, and towel-dry.

As always, deadhead your climbers to keep them blooming, but just until fall — allowing hips to develop helps the plant enter dormancy, which will help it overwinter properly.

Feeding

Fertilizer requirements differ, depending upon where you live and your individual soil composition. In the South or West, where roses tend to grow for 9 or 10 months of the year, more fertilizer may be needed. In contrast: in the North, where roses may have 3 or 4 months of growth, less fertilizer will be used.

• Time-release rose food is the easiest form to use; all you have to remember is to apply it once or twice per season, and water before and after use to avoid burning.
• Organic gardeners like a 50/50 mix of cottonseed and alfalfa meals. Use 10 cups of this mixture at the base of each rose every 10 weeks, and cover with mulch.

Start fertilizing in early spring after pruning, about four weeks before spring growth begins. In cold-winter regions, stop fertilizing six weeks before the first predicted frost to allow the plant to go dormant before a hard freeze.

Mulching and Winterizing

Mulch is critical to keep rose roots evenly moist in the summer, and to protect them against hard freezing over the winter. Apply a layer of mulch, only a few inches thick, around roses in the spring – this may happen at planting time if you plant roses in the spring. Later in the fall, after the first frost, pile up more mulch around the plants to provide extra insulation. As the ground warms and thaws in the spring, gradually remove the excess mulch and leave a layer of mulch that is just a few inches thick again.

Pest Control

Roses seem to attract more insects than any other flower – beneficials and pests alike! Pests may chew and pit the leaves, wilt the petals, and burrow into the stems. You can nip pest problems in the bud with organic Insecticidal Soap — it acts quickly and on contact (not systemically) to get rid of common rose pests like aphids, scale, and whiteflies, with an all-natural solution.

Note: Pesticides don’t know the difference between beneficials and pests, so never use pesticides when bees or other beneficials are present.

Disease Control

Roses are subject to black spot, anthracnose, and other fungal problems caused by a recipe of too much water, humidity, and heat. Some varieties are more disease-resistant. If your climbing roses do develop a fungal disease, a disease control spray like Bonide,  Fung-onil, Multi-Purpose Fungicide should be used. 

For a natural alternative in organic gardens, copper-based Bordeaux spray/dust is effective against mildews and other diseases.

Climbing roses are a unique twist to the traditional landscape – and since they take up very little ground space, you can enjoy growing your own climbers even if your space is limited. Now that you have the basics down, you’re ready to get started growing your own climbing roses!

Source: starkbros.com

How to Grow and Care for Wisteria

Wisteria is the quintessential climber for the English cottage garden. A well-grown Wisteria is an absolute joy in mid-late spring when the beautiful, scented pendants of flowers drape from the branches in a breathtaking display. 

But often gardeners find these climbing plants a little daunting. The idea of all that pruning and training just feels far too complicated. It’s a shame because it’s not as tricky as you might think – in fact Wisteria is actually very easy to grow. With correct care these long-lived twining climbers will reward you with many years of pleasure in your garden.

Growing Conditions and General Care

The most important factor to consider when growing Wisteria is location. Wisteria is a twining vine that requires sturdy support and regular pruning to keep it under control. 

Open areas surrounded by lawn that can be easily mowed are ideal for growing Wisteria.

Wisteria doesn’t fair well in cold so make sure it receives plenty of sunlight.

This vine requires deep, rich soil that is somewhat moist but will tolerate many soil conditions.

Once planted, pruning is about the only important requirement for Wisteria vine care. Since this vine is an aggressive grower, there’s no need for fertilizing and being drought tolerant, Wisteria requires little watering.

Pruning and Training

While Wisteria is great for covering an arbor or pergola, training Wisteria vines makes it easier to control. Keep in mind, however, when training Wisteria vines the variety may exhibit different twining characteristics. For example, Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) twines counterclockwise while the Japanese variety (Wisteria floribunda) is the opposite, twining clockwise.

When training Wisteria vines, select an upright stem and attach it to the chosen support. Remove any side shoots and continue to train the main vine upwards. 

New side branches can be trained as needed to fill in spaces of the support structure by attaching them where desired. For best results, keep these side branches spaced about 18 inches (45 cm) apart. Once the Wisteria has reached the desired height, pinch off or cut the main vine tip to stunt its growth.

Even trained Wisteria vines require regular pruning; otherwise, Wisteria will quickly take over everything in its path. Knowing how and when to prune Wisteria is important. 

While regular pruning of new shoots throughout its growing season helps keep the vine manageable, Wisteria requires a heavy pruning in late fall or winter as well. Remove any dead wood or crowded branches and cut back the side branches to about a foot (30 cm) or so from the main trunk. Also remove any suckers from its base.

Propagation

Learning how to propagate Wisteria vines is easy; however, doing so by way of seed is not a good idea. If choosing to propagate from seed, soak them overnight and plant. The seeds should sprout within a few weeks but keep in mind that blooming may not occur for 10-15 years, if ever.

The best way to propagate Wisteria is through cuttings taken in summer or by layering branches. Either method will still take about 3 to 4 years for blooming. When layering branches, choose a flexible branch and bend it to the ground, placing a few inches into the soil (with leaf node included). Weight it down to secure in place and allow this to overwinter. By spring it should have enough roots for planting.

Source: gardeningknowhow.com

How to Grow and Care for a Lily of the Valley Bush

Pieris japonica is a species of fantastic evergreen spring shrub which put on a spectacular display of white or pink, bell-shaped flowers and colorful new growth which ranges from pale pink to dark burgundy. It is a member of the Heath family and is originally from the forested mountain regions of China, Japan and Taiwan, and often called Lily of the Valley Bush, Japanese Pieris or Japanese Andromeda. 

It is a shrubs or small tree which in the wild can reach up to 33 feet (10 m), but the cultivated varieties available from garden centers are more likely to be small and compact or just reaching a height of up to 13 feet (4 m). They are fairly slow growing so even if you buy one of the larger varieties they will probably take up to 20 years to reach their maximum height. 

They are toxic to people and animals so make sure they are planted in a position where farm stock cannot reach them. They go well with other ericaceous woodland plants such as Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, as they all enjoy the same conditions.

Position

As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. 

They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. 

They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.

Planting

Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.

Aftercare

It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.

Containers

Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage.

 

Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.

Pests and Diseases

Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.

Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.

Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.

Source: hayesgardenworld.co.uk

How to Grow and Care for Meconopsis

The Meconopsis genus contains short lived hardy perennials that reach a height of 1 to 5 feet (30 cm to 1.5 m). They carry poppy like flowers that can bloom in spring, summer or the start of autumn (species dependent). Many Meconopsis species are known for their blue poppy like flowers but they can also carry flowers of many other colors including white, orange, pink and yellow. Some of the common names for Meconopsis include Welsh Poppy, Asiatic Poppy, Blue Poppy and Harebell Poppy.

The Blue Poppy is the national flower of Bhutan. Welsh poppies can be invasive.

Growing Conditions and General Care

Full sunlight (cool areas only); full or partial shade. Acidic soil. Add grit to heavy soils. Nutrient-rich soil, add manure, leaf matter or compost if necessary. Moist soil. Supply mulch of manure of bark chippings when planting to help maintain moisture; do not cover the crowns. Regular watering during dry periods in summer to keep the soil moist. No need to water in the winter as the plant prefers a dry soil whilst resting. Cut back to the ground in autumn. Replace regularly as Meconopsisdo not live for long time.

How to Grow from Seeds

The seeds of the Meconopsis should be sown on the surface; this can wither be done just before the last frost of spring or towards the end of autumn. Blue Poppies prefer to grow in a shady or partially shady part of the gardens but can tolerate sunny areas in milder climates. They like a rich acidic soil, ideally the soil should be kept moist in the summer, but allowed to dry in the winter.

When starting Blue Poppy off indoors do so about two months in advance. The Meconopsis seeds should be sown in vermiculite. It should take about two to four weeks for blue poppy to germinate at 54 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (12 to 18 degrees Celsius). Once growing the seedlings should be watered from beneath. Once ready transplant the young Meconopsis plants at a spacing of 12 inches/30 cm (small) to 2.5-3 feet/75-90 cm (large) apart. This should be done following the last frost of spring.

Grower’s Tips

When growing Meconopsis plants in the garden it is very important to keep the soil moist in the summer. Once the growing period has finished, cut back Meconopsis plant to ground level (autumn). If you require more plants then they can be propagated by division at the start of spring.

Source: gardenershq.com

Beautiful peony, and peony planting

Peony  its Latin name is  Paeonia officinalis.   The origin of water in Asia and Europe, the order includes shrubs, and woody and herbaceous perennial plants.
Because of the beauty of their flowers, peony flowers is one of the most popular the spring  flowers that are planted in March.

Peonies  grow up to one meter in height, the tree is easy. Leaves alternate, large, feathery divided.  Peony  is big, can be free or full, 10cm or more in diameter, wide.  The smell of peony is beautiful, especially white.
Peony flowers  in red, pink and white peony  color Peonies are one of the oldest and most beautiful species that are grown as flowers for the garden

Spring flowers peony planting

Do not ask for any special plant if a suitable place. Year after year,  the flower peony becomes only bigger and richer blossom. Require a sunny place, not particularly demanding when it comes to land, managed in each country.
There are two types of peony herbaceous and shrub   Paeonia suffruticosa.

Herbaceous  peony  has green shoots, which fades to fall, and in the spring again sprang up from the roots. Shrub peony have woody shoots where the autumn leaves fall. Peony planting - at the planting of herbaceous peony, it is important not to plant them too deep, because it will not flourish.

Thick roots should cover with a few inches of earth.

It would be advisable to plant them in the ground which is enriched with humus.

Flower peony  should be regularly watered and cleaned of trash and weeds.

The flowers will be bigger if you remove all but the thermal buds. If there are brown spots on the young shoots, this is due to excessive moisture .. You need to stretch infected shoots are a little above the ground, and to be sprayed with some fungicide. Peony flowers  are long-lived plants, but are very sensitive when multiplying or transplant. Best time for  planting peony  is from 9 to 10 months, because then the plants are at rest.

Peony Reproduction

Reproduction is performed by dividing shrubs, cuttings or by grafting. Dividing tillers is carried out every four years and in the fall. The first should be carefully removed the earth, so that washed cluster and a sharp knife to make the division making sure that each part has the 3 peak bud. If there is only one, the plant will flourish only for 2-3 years. It is planted at a distance of at least one meter plant from the plant.

Reproduction peony cuttings is done when be more flower. Grafting is done in eight months, with woody species. 

Peony  can be copied to and from seed, but it is not recommended because the spores germinate and the need 2-3 years to get plant. A cauliflower only after five years of sowing.

Peony flowering time

Peony flowers blossom from mid-May to mid jun. Several wildlife bloom from mid-April, provided that the weather conditions are favorable.

Peony are among the favorite cut flowers, use them as flowers for the house. Peony flower and can live in the water, if you cut off the stem before the flower opens. The water put teaspoon of sugar and a little apple cider vinegar. Will adorn your home for two to three weeks.

If in the spring of removing the side buds, in May, the plant will have a beautiful lush flowers.

healing peony

The plant is  poisonous  , but has not been tested enough not clinically not chemical. I do not recommend the use of peony, once used it in folk medicine but is very often came to poisoning because of this plant.

Peony flower is a symbol of  prosperity and happy marriage.